Browning brisket gives a depth of flavor, while the acidic ingredients and cooking time tenderize this tough cut of beef.

Heat oven to 350 F.

In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Season brisket with pepper. In batches, cook meat, turning occasionally, until dark brown on all sides. Transfer brisket to a plate.

Add onions to pot. Cook and stir until browned. Add garlic and thyme and cook and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add tomatoes (undrained), vinegar, and stock or wine. Bring to a boil. Return beef to pot, cover, then place pot in oven. Cook until beef is tender, 3 to 3 1/2 hours.

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 1/2 pounds beef brisket, trimmed of fat and cut into 8 pieces of roughly equal size
• Course ground pepper
• 1 1/2 cups chopped onions
• 4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 can (14.5 ounces) no-salt-added tomatoes and liquid
• 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
• 1 cup low-sodium beef stock or red wine